Foodie Culture and Domino’s Self-Flagellating Ad Campaign
Slate dissects Domino’s latest television ad, which rolls out the company’s “new and improved” pizza after airing some especially brutal customer criticism.
I’m kind of reluctant to throw Domino’s under the bus (if only because its “5-5-5” deal basically got me through college) but I was struck by the commercial’s emphasis on all-natural, quality ingredients. McDonald’s has also recast its brand in similar terms, from boasting about the dollar menu’s nutritional value to talking about the quality of its ingredients. I don’t know if this signals a broader trend, but it’s an interesting look at how some mainstream eateries are self-consciously appropriating the vocabulary (and values) of foodie culture.
in terms of crazy fast food advertising campaigns, the one that blows my mind is the new “fast food diet” campaign by taco bell. i’m still not sure i believe that it’s not a joke. i assumed that there would be a number of fast food joints that would follow the subway-jared bandwagon. however, to go from advertising “fourth meal” (let me translate: 2:00 in the morning? stoned? don’t forget taco bell….) to diet food for suburban women in a few short years seems bold.Report
On the other end of the spectrum is Hardee’s “Thickburger” campaign.
Go, Hardee’s!Report
There’s a reason for this: Chipotle. Cosi. Panera Bread. Pyrogrill. High-quality fast-food is something that actually exists now.
Also, in the case of cheap pizza, Papa John’s has been advertising “better ingredients” for I don’t know how long. Though that makes you wonder why they put so much goddamn sugar in the sauce.
(As for Domino’s, I’m a hater, so I’m heartened by this…though not enough to make me try their “new” pizza.)Report
Okay, fine. Maribou is at work doing some work thing and I’m batchin’ it tonight.
So I put in an order for a pepperoni/diced tomatoes and a pepperoni/onions.
I’ll post a full review, I assure you.Report
The Short Version: Pleasantly Surprised
The Medium Version: Still Opportunity Cost Issues But No Longer Dealbreakers
The Long Version:
Okay, there are three parts to the pizza, right? Cheese, sauce, crust. Let’s break each down:
1) Cheese. The new Domino’s Pizza now uses real cheese instead of processed. This brings Domino’s in line with the other places from which we order. (I get Roadrunner Pizza if I’m inclined to be focusing more on the wine/beer than the pizza (true story, I talked to the driver of my particular pie one night beforehand, I told him that if he’d pick me up a bottle of Black Opal, I’d give him a $10 tip, he got me a bottle of Black Opal… THEY HAVE A CUSTOMER FOR LIFE!!!! Maribou doesn’t like them much, though), Louie’s if I’m inclined to be focusing more on the company we’re having over than the wine/beer (the cheesy bread w/ extra cheese is divine), or Boriello Brothers’ Pizza if Maribou is ordering. Anyway, they all use real cheese. Domino’s is now no worse than the three places from which we’re inclined to order. While this is certainly a step up for them (and kudos!), they aren’t really distinguishing themselves.
2) Sauce. Eh. It’s okay. It’s actually got a flavor now. You’ll no longer feel like you’re wasting good beer by drinking it with Domino’s. It’s not spicy enough to make you exclaim something and then reach for the pitcher… but, hey. Expectations were met… which brings us back to “why them over the other guys?”
3) Crust. Okay. They actually impressed me here. When I got to the crust, I took a bite and found that it was nice and herby and garlicy and chewy. I was pleased. Not “this is good for Domino’s” pleased like I was with the cheese and sauce, but, like, actually pleased. No grading on a curve or anything.
Which brings us to the final issue:
Let’s say the nephew comes over for a play date. He says “let’s get a pizza!” and you ask “what do you want?” and he yells “DOMINO’S!!!!”
A year ago, I would have said “aw, jeez, kid… what have your parents done to you… tonight, we learn about garlic” and ordered a Louie’s. If Maribou were feeling punchy, she’d have said that we’d learn about the East Coast and we’d have ordered Boriello’s. (I figure that when the kid is old enough to discover reggae music and associateds, he’ll find out about Roadrunner himself.)
Now? Eh. If the kid wants Domino’s, the kid can have Domino’s.
It’s good pizza for people who aren’t inclined to make their own or throw together a Boboli and it’s now better than frozen pizza. I can’t tell you why you ought to order it instead of your favorite local chain… but I can tell you why you shouldn’t complain if your nephew demands it when he comes over for a play date. It ain’t half bad.Report
JosephFM – That’s a smart point. I think McDonald’s actually owns Chipotle.
Jaybird – An impressively thorough report. Many thanks. Report
Jaybird – Well thanks! I likely won’t be ordering from there anytime soon, but if this is correct it might actually be marginally better than Gumby’s now. But I generally AM inclined to make my own, so there you go.
Will – McD’s sold their shares of Chipotle a few years ago, but good point.Report