Bring Back Signet Rings

Conrad Faber von Kreuznach, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Those of us who take fashion seriously are used to caring more about our own clothes than anyone else. The subtly different pattern in my blazer stands out like the sun to me, but no one else is likely ever to notice that it is new. The one exception I have observed is my signet ring. Friends, coworkers, and random people on the street are perplexed by the anachronistic piece of jewelry I almost always wear on my right hand. “What is the ring for?” is the most common question. Others simply stare at the ring as if it’s something you would expect to find in a zoo.

In truth, I cannot blame them.

The world of the well dressed dandy has long since passed us by and while a few ties linger on, signet rings have been tossed on the trash heap of fashion – joining such illustrious comrades as the powdered wig and decorative sword. However, this is a tragic mistake. Those few champions of classical men’s style must take up the call to arms. We must ride from store to store proclaiming the greatness of the signet ring to every person we meet. The battle of the signet ring may have been lost in recent decades, but the war can still be won.

Signet rings first emerged in ancient history as a way to identify individuals based on the use of their personal sigil that would be carved into the surface of the ring. This practice – which continued well into the eighteenth century – allowed others to positively identify the origins of correspondence, official documents, and messengers. However, as the necessity of using sigils to identify people gradually faded signet rings started to serve as décor and accessory rather than any practical purpose. Yet they maintained their popularity as a form of self-expression until the post-war corporate world began to frown upon male wardrobes giving too many hints at individual style and preference. Put another, way minimalism was in and accessories were out.

Yet signs are starting to emerge that the drabness of male clothing is slowly dissolving. President Joe Biden is the first president since Ronald Reagan to consistently wear a pocket square. This could perhaps be chalked up to age, but Biden is in fact following the lead of influential newscasters, celebrities, and fashion designers. Likewise, famous actors and singers increasingly break the mold of a single-breasted suit while walking the red carpet and visiting talk shows. While some male celebrities (such as the pearl clad Harry Styles) take this move towards variety too far, in general, these are all heartening developments – a sign that fashion is once again fulfilling the role it was always designed for: opening a visual window into the soul of each individual. The return of the male signet ring could be an important key in helping to revitalize male fashion.

Less permanent than a tattoo but more symbolic than a tie or blazer, signet rings have long been used to indicate the inner nature of those who wear them.

As this mindset has shifted, we would do well to revive the signet ring. Like much of modern fashion they serve as a subtle way for men to represent their values in their clothing. To wear a family crest on your hand is a sign that you are proud of your roots and connected to a long family tradition. A class ring signals not your bloodline but your intellectual heritage – it declares where you drank from the fountain of knowledge and gives an indication of the shape of your mind. Though even less common in the modern era, many individuals used to wear signet rings engraved only with their initials. Donning a ring of this sort would indicate that you wish to strike out as your own person, perhaps not cut off from your past, but certainly not emphasizing it.

However, the real virtue of a signet ring is that it is a form of a self-expression that ties us to something bigger than ourselves. Whether it be our family or a concept of self-reliance, the signet ring is a chance to wear a permanent reminder of who we are. Just as wedding rings exist to remind the couple of their vows to one another, signet rings represent some special connection that we may stand in need of a constant reminder of. Ultimately, of course, style is a matter of personal preference. We should all dress in a way that makes us happy and reflects who we are, but as the world contemplates new accessories for the male wardrobe, we should all consider the signet ring as a top contender.