The power of Christ compels you! (to watch this bit of Southern California surf history)
I remember the huge South swell referred to in this film, and on another occasion seeing Chris O’Rourke, wearing his helmet, getting tubed at Simons, a fast, hard-breaking right that was my father’s favorite spot.
My family moved away from La Jolla the same year Chris O’Rourke died and I didn’t surf Wind’n’Sea again for another 20+ years.
In 2004 I paddled into the line-up, my claim long since vanished, and noticed… Nothing. No stinkeye; no heavy vibe. Nothing.
“What happened?” I finally asked a guy.
“It got to the point that there were 250 guys who could legitimately call themselves locals so it just didn’t mean anything anymore.”
At the time, his explanation made sense.